Chapter 10
Selling Material through an Auction House
This chapter deals with
selling collections or individual items through an auction house. If you
have a high-value or medium-value collection, you should read it.
This chapter does not cover online auctions such as eBay. Those are
discussed in chapter 15.
10.1 General Information
Short of finding a collector who will purchase your material directly,
auction houses are generally the best way to sell high-value items. Most
auction houses will only auction collections worth $3,000 or more. That’s
a $3,000 sale price, not a $3,000 catalog value. However, many auction
houses will also make an offer to purchase outright just about any
material you send them.
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Note: If you know your
material is worth less than $3,000, the auction house may or may not
make you an offer for it. They may send you a letter asking you for
shipping instructions to return the material at your cost. Others
will require that you state your asking price as a basis for further
discussion. |
Auction houses advertise in Linn’s every week. (See
chapter 25.) Check out their ads in the
newspaper, but also ask any collectors you know about their experiences
with auction houses. Collectors and local stamp clubs are also
good sources of information.
If you would like to discuss selling your collection or part of it, do the
following:
1. Call up one or more auction house(s). If you have any kind of
inventory available (especially of the best stamps), have it handy.
If you do not have an inventory of what’s in the albums, that is okay. It
is not necessary for you to identify individually in a Scott catalog all
200,000 stamps you inherited!
2. Ask to speak to a buyer. They’ll usually ask you if you’re selling a
USA or foreign collection.
3. Once you get the buyer, just tell him/her what you have, and that
you are interested in selling it. The buyer will ask you some questions to
help him/her get a rough estimate of the value of your collection. These
will be questions similar to what you answered in chapter 5. The buyer may
ask you to pull out a particular album and check if such-and-such stamp is
there. The whole thing may take you two minutes or an hour.
Here are some other questions you should anticipate being asked. What
method did you use to access the value of the material? What is the
earliest item in the collection? What is the highest value item in the
collection? Are there any covers?
Don’t be afraid to ask questions. This is a business deal. If you are not
comfortable with this firm, talk to another one. If you have concerns,
express them. They’ve been through this before; you haven’t.
4. If the buyer is interested in what you have, he/she will ask you to
ship it to their appraisal department. You will get detailed instructions
on how to do this. Some houses have insurance policies that can save you
on your insurance costs when you mail the package. Ask if the material
will be covered by insurance while it is at the auction house.
5. In about a week, you should get a form to sign. Read it over carefully,
be sure you understand it, then sign it and mail it back. If you don’t
understand something, call them back and ask.
6. The next thing you should get is an estimate from the buyer. This could
be in a letter or via a phone call. You may get an outright offer to buy
the material at this time. You may accept the offer. If you do, you’ll get
a check for a known amount in a short period of time. If you would rather
continue with the auction process, it will take longer to get your
money--at least six to nine months. You stand a risk of getting less than
the cash offer, but you might also get more. If your material has an
expected sale price under the house minimum (usually $3,000), you may
receive a cash offer to buy, but may not have the option to continue to
auction. It is sometimes possible to get a cash advance from the auction
house against the expected sale realizations. If you do this, there is a
small possibility you might have to pay some of the money back if the
realizations are not as high as expected.
7. If you both decide to auction the material, you will later receive a
catalog with your lot or lots marked for you.
8. About thirty to ninety days after the auction you will get a check for
your part of the sale. They will keep their commission which usually runs 10% to 20% of the sale. You may see a sliding scale percentage: if the
material is expected to sell for under $10,000, the commission may be 20%;
on material from $10,000 to $25,000, perhaps 15%. On material of higher
value, the commission is usually negotiable. It is not uncommon to see a
smaller commission if the lot is expected to sell for over $25,000. Again,
this varies by auction house. They will be happy to quote their rates.
If an auction house has a 10% commission, for example, they normally
make 20% of the sale. The seller pays a 10% commission and the buyer pays
a 10% commission on top of the hammer price. It is also possible to
see a situation where the buyer pays a 15% commission and the seller pays
a 20% commission, leaving the auction house with 35%.
Ask about any other fees that may be charged for insurance (usually 1%
of actual hammer price), or separating the material into individual lots,
etc. You should have a clear understanding of what fees you are expected
to pay.
9. When you see a firm’s auction catalog, you will note that they
illustrate many of the lots being auctioned. These are usually the more
expensive lots. If you wish to have your lots illustrated, and they are
not ones the firm would normally illustrate, you will be asked to pay an
additional fee. In general, the possible increase in the price realized at
auction will not cover that fee.
The major problem in dealing with an auction house is time. It may take
six to nine months or more to get your money. Your material has to be
appraised and described, and then placed in the next available auction
which may be several months away. Catalogs have to be printed and mailed.
Bidders need time to send in their mail-order bids. Finally the day of the
auction arrives, and the lot is sold. This could be to a mail-order
bidder, a telephone bidder or someone who was attending the auction. Next,
the material has to be shipped to the buyer. If the buyer finds that the
lot matches the published description, he/she sends a payment to the
auction house. Then the auction house sends you a check. The
after-the-sale part could take thirty to ninety days. You’ll have to
decide if you can live with this wait.
If you are selling a very valuable stamp, the buyer also has a certain
amount of time to get it expertized if he/she chooses to do so. If it is a
fake, you aren’t going to get any money. Many auction houses will require
expertization of "risky" stamps before they will consider auctioning them
at all. This may add one to three months to the process.
Another concern is, "What if the only bid they get for my $10,000 stamp
is 10 cents?" This could happen, but usually doesn’t. If you are worried
about this, state in writing that you want a reserve bid of $2,000 or
whatever you like. Unless the auctioneer gets a bid higher than your
reserve, the lot comes back to you. Be sure to ask the auction house if
there is a fee for a reserve bid. Some auction houses accept reserve bids;
others have totally unreserved sales. Ask about it.
If the auction house does not accept reserve bids, you can place a bid
for your own lot. This is risky. If you win the lot, you’ll have to pay
both the buyer’s and seller’s commission which could add up to 20% or more
of your bid unless you and the firm have previously agreed on some other
arrangement.
Some auction houses will set a minimum bid on their lots. This kind of
auction is sometimes called a minimum-bid auction. Most serious buyers,
however, prefer to patronize unreserved public auctions. In an unreserved
public auction, there are no minimum bids required.
10.2 Private Treaty
If you are selling your house, you usually list it with a real estate
agent. The agent is responsible for showing the house, advertising it, and
(hopefully) arranging to close the sale. In the world of stamps, a private
treaty sale is the same kind of transaction.
Most auction houses will be happy to enter into a private treaty arrangement
with you. They will act as your agent in trying to find a buyer. They will
advertise it, show it, and (hopefully) find a buyer that will pay an
acceptable price for it. These companies know buyers around the world who
buy unusual or extremely expensive items. You don’t. There is usually a
time period (typically three to six months) to complete the sale. If a
buyer is not found in the specified time period, the seller may usually
leave the material for an additional period of time at a reduced asking
price or request that the material be returned without cost or obligation.
If a buyer is found, the auction house collects the money, deducts their
commission (which may be lower than their auction commission) and sends
you a check.
Again, call the auction house and talk to them. They will know if an
auction or a private treaty is better. As a matter of fact, just keep it
simple. Assume that you are going to auction the material from the
beginning. They will tell you if that’s the way to go, or if another
alternative is better.
Private treaties are not handled just by auction houses. Mail-order
dealers and larger local dealers may also handle them. There they are
called consignments. See chapter 8, section 8.5.
10.3 Mail Sales
You may also encounter the concept of a mail sale as you speak with
various auction houses and dealers. In a mail sale, a catalog is printed
and distributed to potential buyers. The buyers send in their bids by
mail, and the highest bid wins. There is no public gathering to make final
bids as there is with the regular auction process.

